Albion, ancient sites, Archaeology, Art, TOLL

Naked Earth

Looking at the map of prehistoric sites across the land, where there are just so many to see, I wondered just how long it would take to visit them all. Most of Britain is the same once you get outside the cities…

except the place where I live. There is not a stone circle, dolmen or standing stone for miles. Granted, we have our fair share of historical landscapes and plenty of holy wells, but other than a handful of barrows and the odd hillfort, trackway and chalk carving of debatable age, there is not much to see of the prehistoric landscape.

What is found tends to be unearthed during the archaeological investigations made prior to building work… and subsequently re-interred where only future archaeologists will ever see it.

I was enormously excited to read of a massive prehistoric burial complex on the edge of Bicester, just fifteen miles from my home. Archaeologists investigated a hundred and thirty-four trenches and found archaeological remains in forty-one of them, including a Bronze Age axe head, an Iron Age settlement and hearth, plus later Roman and Saxon remains. If that wasn’t enough, the site was declared of national importance when the burials were found to be around 5,500 years old! The building developers had been slammed with an exclusion zone around the remains so that they would not be lost or damaged. The plans had to be altered… perfect. I was all ready to grab my camera and go!

Until I read further. The remains are now perfectly safe… and buried beneath a primary school playing field, with no trace of them showing above the surface…

It is undeniably frustrating. When our adventures were drawing such inspiration from the oldest churches, my area was the perfect environment for our forays. Very many ancient churches remain here, often no more than a mile or two apart. It has always been a relatively wealthy area and the churches have been well preserved. Wall paintings and carvings have survived, stained glass windows survive from medieval times… symbolism drips from the walls and we had a field day exploring their bounty.

It is not a tick-box affair, visiting these sites. When we visit a site we stay long enough to get a good feel for the place. It is almost always a first visit, not an only one. We tend to go back, sometimes very many times, and each time we look at the site with a different perspective born of an increasing familiarity and intimacy with its earth and stone. We had done the same with the churches, learning our way around them, little by little, missing much, to begin with… until we learned what to look for. The same methods we use now in an older landscape.

On the odd occasion when we visit a place too far away to have any guarantee of being able to get back there once we have left the area, we take our time. Frequently, we return before we move on and, as at Bryn Celli Dhu, the stones seem to respond, knowing the limitations of time and our desire to understand.

But what we learned edged us further and further back in time, into a more ancient landscape where the temples were roofed with stars. Following the trail, we were drawn into the ancestral past and began to learn how to work with the sites and stones of the old ones.

And I now live in an area where there are none.

But, it occurred to me, driving home through the darkness with a bright moon above, that before there were those sacred sites of worked stone and wood, we could go back even further, to a time when the sacrality of the earth itself led our ancestors both out onto the high places and deep into the caverns that are the womb of the earth. Only relatively recently had Stuart and I felt the ‘invitation’ to go below ground seeking these sacred places and had eventually visited the site of some of Britain’s only surviving cave art dating back thirteen thousand years.

I flicked on the PC to watch videos of the incredible paintings at Lascaux and Chauvet caves. The creatures of Lascaux were painted over seventeen thousand years ago, deep underground. They include a bird-man, thought to be a shamanic figure, and quite obviously both the paintings and the making of them held some kind of ritual significance that can only be called sacredness. The Chauvet caves date back thirty-three thousand years… and they are so beautiful that even the video footage found online can make me weep.

They put our five- or six-thousand-year old remains in perspective, just as they had done for the thousand-year-old churches.

In one of those moments of lucidity, when what you have always known, what you have even spoken of with others, becomes so crystal clear that you kick yourself for blind imbecility, I understood… finally… that mankind’s concept of sacredness goes back even further than Chauvet. Not just because to reach that level of sophistication in art, they would have had to have been learning their skills for generations… even before that.

The dates on the earliest art made by humans keeps being pushed back ever further and art in itself is an attempt to capture something magical.

Yet, before ever paint was made from ochre and charcoal, the first Venus figurine shaped from clay or the first etchings made on bone. Before anyone spoke what was in their hearts, one human being looked upon the land and felt its life to be sacred, even though there were not yet words for what he felt.

Whatever temples we have built since then, from the mounds of earth to the pyramids, from the forests of stones to the starry roofed churches, we have echoed the forms of that very first sacred place… the earth.

It matters not at all that there are no prehistoric marvels near my home. I was born in a sacred space and my body will never know any other. All I have to do is step out of my back door and I am standing in a place as old as time and older than Man.

21 thoughts on “Naked Earth”

  1. Your words and thoughts always rob me of the power of speech, Sue, as emotion takes over and I feel all that you write. More people should revere the ground they walk on, as we do…


  2. So true. It’s all still there, buried under playing fields maybe, but do we have to touch things to believe in them when the evidence it there, the film and documentation? I’m quite happy to know that Machu Pichu exists, to see the photos. I don’t need to go up to it, touch it, contribute to the destruction of the peace that surrounded it. Let sleeping dogs and everything else lie.


    1. No… we should not need to see or touch… though somethimes it might be good if at least local people could be involved in decisions about their possible ancestors before moves are made to lock things away.
      What has been done at Chauvet and Lascaux, for example, still allows us to experiece something of the wonder of the caves without ever setting foot within them or putting them at risk. And sometimes, to understand why something matters, we may need to experience it for ourselves.


      1. It’s all a question of numbers. Even Stonehenge has to be kept off limits to stop it being degraded by visitors, same with Mount Fuji. Lascaux has already suffered almost irrevocable damage from the breath of the millions of visitors. Yes, it would be wonderful if the people who cared could actually experience these places, but most visitors don’t ‘care’ they just want another notch on their pistol. If they would stay at home or on the beach and let the handful who would actually get something out of visiting go ahead, that would be perfect.


          1. If they have a lightbulb moment, I’m all for it. You have to let through an awful lot of people who are only there because the Taj Mahal was fully booked before you get someone who understands at last what it’s all about.


  3. A beautiful and wondrous post, Sue. I took a break in the middle to take virtual tours of the Lascaux and Chauvet caves. They’re breathtaking. But you’re right that we tread upon the sacred every time we step on the Earth.


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